Two new 5.13’s in Valley of Shaddai

Photo: Alex Eggermont

Photo: Alex Eggermont

Clinton Leung has established two new 5.13 mixed routes at Emmie’s Landing in the Valley of Shaddai.

Mexican Trash Dog 5.13a 

FA: Clinton Leung Sept 2020

Gear: Offset RP’s , 0.2 to 0.5 x2, 2 bolts, optional hand sized pieces and knee pad.

5m right of Em. Climb the overhanging discontinuous crack using compression, pull through the roof into fingers in a LFC. Finish on easy hands. Sustained. Excellent. 30m.

Soup Girl Sisterhood 5.13c R 

FA: Clinton Leung Sept 2020

Gear: 4 bolts, Offset RP’s, 0.2 - 0.5, double 0.4, optional 2. 

10m right of Em. Climb bolted corner escaping right at the last bolt to achieve a small foot ledge. Boulder the thin seam above. R rating is for the potential to hit the small ledge. Good. 30m. 

Other notes: 

Coordinates: 49.64006, -123.20113

Sun hits SGS at 1pm and MTD at 2:30pm. Wall can be windy and dries fast, routes were bone dry two days after rain. Top of routes can be achieved by walking back along Zap crack trail south and cutting towards the cliff. 20m rap off a tree brings you to the ledge where the routes a top out. A short rap off a tree will bring you to the anchors.