The Never Ending Traverse

"The Never Ending Traverse 5.11b" would be a good pairing with rutabaga. The climb starts 10m slightly right and uphill from deadend dihedral. 

The first pitch has a new and harder direct start to the historic pitch called "slow dyke", climbed by Peter Croft in 1982. I only added two bolts to the dyke traverse. Peter left the route very bold and it became severely overgrown. By adding two bolts to the traverse I hope more people will climb the route. It reduces some of the seriousness of the route, but there is still sections of heady climbing, with minimal gear through the traverse. A Peter Croft special.

Pitch 1 50m 5.11b, 6 bolts

Scramble up corner to a little belay ledge below 3 bolts where the pitch begins. Delicately climb up the face past 3 bolts (new direct start). Transfer into a shallow corner system and climb up to the right leaning Dyke. Do not climb straight up from dyke. This is a different multipitch that is currently in development. Climb the traversing dyke rightward across the wall to the forested ledge and belay. 

Pitch 2: 27m 5.10d, one bolt

Once on the forested ledge traverse right about 9m to the start of pitch 2. A lonely bolt below a traversing crack is the start of pitch 2. Boldy face climb up to crack. Follow the traversing crack to base of cedar tree. Sling tree and make some cruxy moves into a thin crack on the left of tree. Follow the splitter crack to the anchor. Rap from here. 

FA Kyle Smith and Casey Dubois

Recommended gear

A single 60m rope and SR to 4". A few double in finger and hand sizes could be useful. 12 alpine draws.