Morningstar 10b/11d (Rogues’)

A two pitch route at the Big House in Rogue’s Gallery.

Pitch One (10b): Start in crappy rock and follow the diagonal ramp. Work you way up through a couple of cruxes on the face to an easy 10ft runout below the roof (bolt to be added). There is a direct start that avoids rope drag so can do all in one pitch.

Pitch Two (11d?): Up the open book corner that dissipates so look for pockets that move you up and right. Then mantel into a couple of huge dimples and rest up for the top delicate crux. Very cool rock.

You can link the two pitches via the straight up direct start, but you must use the midpoint anchor to get down.

FA:: PWinter-Apr 2021