Lucifer's Lips 5.9/10b (Smoke Bluffs)

Just right of Penny Lane. From Kris’ FB post:

The new variation begins on the left at the same spot as the face route "Balding For Dollars". It goes through surprisingly perfect jams to where the "normal" start of Satan's Slit would come in from the right, below the little Arbutus tree. The routes share a few metres of climbing past the tree, then the new option stems straight up the widest part of the chimney, clipping bolts on the right arete. At the top of the chimney, (about 25m), there is an anchor out at the arete. There is also the option to continue past 2 more bolts on some harder climbing to an older anchor that someone previously installed at 35m. It is possible for climbers finishing Satan's Slit to traverse south to the 25m anchor on the arete at the same grade. This keeps them out of the loose, rubble-filled groove they would otherwise be scrambling up to access trees, or the gear anchor area at the top of Penny Lane.

5.9 to the 25m anchor. 6 bolts and gear to 2"

5.10b to the upper anchor. 8 bolts and gear to 2"

Kris Wild, Reid Stanger, March 16, 2021