Fly The Coop - 5.11c - 5 pitches
Brian Sexauer has reported a new multi pitch on the Ocean’s Wall.
1.5km voyage from the spit (10-25minutes). The obvious nice pullout below the route (room for several paddling vessels). Less than 1 minute hike to the route which is a few meters right of Madd Furn.
A quality and varied climb. Defined by the spectacular splitter crux pitch and dihedral finale.
Pitch 1: 10a Heavily excavated bolted chimney. chimney or stem.
Pitch 2: 10c- Hike 20 meters. The righthand of two lines. thin cracks and face climbing(Save a #2). At the Tree mantle up and make a tricky step right(small cams). Cool Pillar Belay.
Pitch 3: 11c-Initial stemming up a dirty corner gains an impressive crack splitting the blocky roof. sustained thin crack and face. 7bolts generously supplement gear pods. 35 meters
Pitch 4: 10d Deceptive granite friction pitch along a seem and over a techy bulge.
Pitch 5: 11a A steep corner finale with double thin cracks and airy feel.
Rap With a 70m. When rapelling pitch 1 clip the fixed draw to keep the rope out of the chimney.
Rack: 1 each .1 - #2, double .3-.5, and nuts