Balance & Thousand Year Storm 5.13
We bolted Balance using ground-up tactics last summer, but our attempt at a continuous ascent was stymied when we couldn't do the crux. We returned this June to give it a proper ascent, and also finished off Thousand Year Storm, a rap-bolted pitch that links into the Labyrinth.
Both routes are characterized by thin, technical face climbing that's exciting but never truly dangerous.
Balance - 13b, 4p
Rack: 7x draws, 1x .75 camalot
Approach via three rappels with one rope, on the rappel line shown.
p1 - 12d Weave left and upward onto the main feature. The dyke saga begins
This is a sustained pitch with a spicy finish
p2 - 12b More uninterrupted dyke action
p3 - 13b A short and well protected crux leads into the Cerberus flake system
p4 - 11d Finish on the last pitch of Cerberus
Thousand Year Storm - 13a, 40m
12 bolts
A sustained high-quality pitch that links Balance into the finish of Labyrinth.
Balance up a thin right-trending dyke. When one dyke ends another begins, link this into yet another dyke followed by a slab dessert.