Balance & Thousand Year Storm 5.13

Done a ways back, but just got the info now. Drew & Jacob at it again.

We bolted Balance using ground-up tactics last summer, but our attempt at a continuous ascent was stymied when we couldn't do the crux. We returned this June to give it a proper ascent, and also finished off Thousand Year Storm, a rap-bolted pitch that links into the Labyrinth.

Both routes are characterized by thin, technical face climbing that's exciting but never truly dangerous.

Balance - 13b, 4p

Rack: 7x draws, 1x .75 camalot

Approach via three rappels with one rope, on the rappel line shown.

p1 - 12d Weave left and upward onto the main feature. The dyke saga begins

This is a sustained pitch with a spicy finish

p2 - 12b More uninterrupted dyke action

p3 - 13b A short and well protected crux leads into the Cerberus flake system

p4 - 11d Finish on the last pitch of Cerberus

Thousand Year Storm - 13a, 40m

12 bolts

A sustained high-quality pitch that links Balance into the finish of Labyrinth.

Balance up a thin right-trending dyke. When one dyke ends another begins, link this into yet another dyke followed by a slab dessert.

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